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Thursday, 11 September 2014
Ralph Lauren at New York fashion week: tasteful, traditional – and even a bit hip
At Ralph Lauren’s show, insiders looked to the chandeliers hanging from the ceiling for clues to the collection’s contents
Floor-length dresses would swoop through the lobby on the way to a cocktail party, as would satin sheaths and sequinned gowns. Photograph: Peter Foley/EPA
At Ralph Lauren’s catwalk show, insiders look to the chandeliers
hanging from the venue’s ceiling for clues to the content of
collections. For spring/summer 2015, shown on Friday morning at New York
fashion week, they came in gold with looped crystals, covered in layers
of ivory chiffon. Tasteful and traditional was the mood, the hush of
lobbies in discreet uptown hotels.
The collection kept its end of the bargain – eventually. Floor-length
tulle dresses in primary brights later in the show would swoop through
the lobby on the way to a cocktail party, as would satin sheaths and
sequinned gowns. White trouser suits and nipped-in jackets were a
classic – if high maintenance – Lauren look for daytime rendezvous.Source
The Ralph Lauren Spring 2015 collection.Photograph: Richard Drew/AP
While these designs would have kept the Lauren faithful happy – and
caused spontaneous applause from the front row – it was the earlier
looks that were more interesting, and mixed day and evening to modern
effect. The first outfit here showed Lauren was in the mood to try
something a bit different: a pair of combat trousers with a vibrant
violet asymmetric satin top. The kind of hybrid that women have adopted
to respond to day to night lifestyles, the casual glamour felt
effortless, not too ‘done’.
Some pieces were even a bit hip – not usually a word used to describe
one of the establishment figures of American fashion. A pair of combat
trousers and bomber jacket in khaki satin would have easily slotted into
Rihanna’s afterdark wardrobe.
This more relaxed take continued through the first half of this show,
before the trademark gowns and tailoring came out. Combat trousers were
a key shape, but given a luxe edge through a draped, elegant cut.
Highlights included fuscia trousers worn with a khaki silk shirt and
high-heeled sandals, a camel-coloured satin boilersuit and a pumpkin
orange shirt-dress cinched in at the waist. The jewellery -
brightly-coloured gem stones worn in ornate necklaces and teardrop
earrings - pulled the collection together and gave that trademark Lauren
polish.Source
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